Marios Schwab approached me in 2007 to collaborate on his Autumn/Winter 08 print collection. We worked together on further collections, leading to a greater mutual understanding. Dress 09 is a revelation in the nature of collaboration. Combining Schwab’s exquisite knowledge of the woman’s body and tailoring with my desire to see hand and computer react with the moving form, our processes led us to a unique appreciation for each other’s art. I was able to step back from the collections with a more open approach to my methods and it has fostered a desire to continue working in his field. ...more

More about Dress 09
Dress 09, Autumn Winter 2008, Tom Gallant, 2008
Photo: Alex Lee, The Packshot Company Ltd

More about
Dress 09

Marios Schwab's Autumn Winter 2008/2009 collection follows the contours of the female form exactly. Schwab creates a uniform and elongated silhouette, so fitted against the body that although the figure is entirely enclosed it stands revealed.

The collection examines the body's silhouette, rather than the body itself. Inspired by the text of the Yellow Wallpaper, garments are intricately cut, increasing both the complexity and fragility of the fabric employed. In collaboration with Tom Gallant, fabrics are dissected to create multifaceted surfaces, within which lie contrasting layers of flesh or print.

Gallant examines the origin of the West's continuing fascination with pornography. Intricate and beautiful shapes, in this case William Morris prints, are cut and mounted onto pages extracted from pornographic magazines. The delicacy of the exterior layer obscures and objectifies the subjects and their sexual activities.

Here the garments not only reveal Gallant’s techniques and interest in the cut but also his representation of flesh and the body. Fabric acts as canvas or paper would to an artist, covering the entire form. It is then incised and worked upon, revealing different portions of the original silhouette. A classic pea coat works as a frame to a dress, simple and strong. This classic, complete framework is once again cut down and recreated into short and sleeveless versions.

In the Autumn/Winter 09 collection, a seemingly simple shape is repeated across all garments, but each time in a different and complex representation. By adding one layer to another a third layer is created through visualisation.

Crafts Council - OnView Online