Marios Schwab approached me in 2007 to collaborate on his Autumn/Winter 08 print collection. We worked together on further collections, leading to a greater mutual understanding. Dress 09 is a revelation in the nature of collaboration. Combining Schwab’s exquisite knowledge of the woman’s body and tailoring with my desire to see hand and computer react with the moving form, our processes led us to a unique appreciation for each other’s art. I was able to step back from the collections with a more open approach to my methods and it has fostered a desire to continue working in his field. ” ...more
" The colour is dull enough to confuse the eye in following, pronounced enough to constantly irritate and provoke study, and when you follow the lame uncertain curves for a little distance they suddenly commit suicide - plunge off at outrageous angles, destroy themselves in unheard-of contradictions. "
" There is a recurrent spot where the pattern lolls like a broken neck and two bulbous eyes stare at you upside down."
" I get positively angry with the impertinence of it and the everlastingness. Up and down and sideways they crawl, and those absurd, un-blinking eyes are everywhere. There is one place where the two breadths didn’t match and the eyes go all up and down the line, one a little higher than the other. "
" Looked at in one way each breadth stands alone, the bloated curves and flourishes - a kind of "debased Romanesque" with delirium tremens - go waddling up and down in isolated columns of fatuity. "
" Sometimes there are a great many women behind, and sometimes only one, and she crawls around fast, and her crawling shakes it all over. "
" It is the strangest yellow, that wallpaper! It makes me think of all the yellow things I ever saw - not beautiful ones like buttercups, but old foul, bad yellow things. "
" Then I peeled off all the paper I could reach standing on the floor. It sticks horribly and the pattern just enjoys it! All those strangled heads and bulbous eyes and waddling fungus growths just shriek with derision! "
Marios Schwab's Autumn Winter 2008/2009 collection follows the contours of the female form exactly. Schwab creates a uniform and elongated silhouette, so fitted against the body that although the figure is entirely enclosed it stands revealed.
The collection examines the body's silhouette, rather than the body itself. Inspired by the text of the Yellow Wallpaper, garments are intricately cut, increasing both the complexity and fragility of the fabric employed. In collaboration with Tom Gallant, fabrics are dissected to create multifaceted surfaces, within which lie contrasting layers of flesh or print.
Gallant examines the origin of the West's continuing fascination with pornography. Intricate and beautiful shapes, in this case William Morris prints, are cut and mounted onto pages extracted from pornographic magazines. The delicacy of the exterior layer obscures and objectifies the subjects and their sexual activities.
Here the garments not only reveal Gallant’s techniques and interest in the cut but also his representation of flesh and the body. Fabric acts as canvas or paper would to an artist, covering the entire form. It is then incised and worked upon, revealing different portions of the original silhouette. A classic pea coat works as a frame to a dress, simple and strong. This classic, complete framework is once again cut down and recreated into short and sleeveless versions.
In the Autumn/Winter 09 collection, a seemingly simple shape is repeated across all garments, but each time in a different and complex representation. By adding one layer to another a third layer is created through visualisation.